Alors je vais casser le rêve : ce n'est pas possible ! 
Pourquoi penses tu ça?
Je ne suis pas d'accord
Sans être possesseur d'un tigre, la modif est tout à fait possible, je l'avais faite sur mon dayto, sans avoir de soucis particuliers. Il s'agit juste d'une question de câblage.
Hihihi !
Bien sûr que c'est une question de cablage, mais dans le même temps, avec le matos d'origine, ça ne sert à rien car ce n'est pas prévu pour, le 2eme feu étant un phare de type H9, avec une optique prévue pour ne fonctionner qu'en phare, et qui ne pourra jamais passer en code...
Et pi en plus, suffit de passer en phare pour avoir les 2 optiques qui fonctionnent ensemble....
salut
Je ne sais pas pour vous, mais perso c'est plus la forme du faisceau (plat) qui m'embête.
Sur les petites départementales dans les lignes droites, c'est bon, mais des que je prends de l'angle, la barre de lumière qui est plate s'incline et je n'y vois plus rien .
coupler les optiques donnera plus de puissance mais ne modifiera pas la forme du faisceau.
Voilà une bonne remarque. 
La possibilité d'un réglage est elle possible, alors?
En élargissant le faisceau lumineux, ou en les croisant, il y a sans doute une solution à creuser.
Certainement. un réglage horizontal peut compenser. Un peu...
Mais l'idéal serait quand même de pouvoir doubler la quantité de lumens disponible la nuit, soit en adoptant un xénon sur le code, soit en changeant les 2 optiques pour les remplacer par des modèles fonctionnant en code/phare chacun.
Le moins cher restera la solution des phares additionnels de type Led qui envoient du bois... ^^
Pour aider ceusses qui n'ont pu aller voir la modif dont je parlais sur le site Tiger1050.com, voici le matos que le gars a implanté en lieu et place de ses optiques d'origine, et sa méthode...
Hello folks!
We all know the stock headlight of the Tiger isn't great.
This conversion will show you how the headlight had to be from the factory.
I also hope someone from Triumph reads this and takes an example of this.
Especially because I'm not a mechanical engineer or followed mechanical training. Everything I know, I learned myself by trying and using my eyes and common sense.
So if you don't have 2 left hands, proper tools and common sense, you also can do this conversion.
I bought myself a second hand light unit to try this because I first was scared to mess up things. And because then I'd be able to continue riding a complete bike.
So the idea of this install, is opening up the headlight, get rid of the stock projectors, replace them with bi-xenon projectors and closing the headlight.
There are some solutions for opening up a headlight on the web, but not all of them apply to the Tiger's headlight.
It won't help if you put in into an oven, because it's sealed with silicone. And those won't melt when hot. I've even tried a cigarette lighter on a piece of loose silicone and I can assure you it doesn't work.
I went to the diy store to get me some silicone remover. First tried it on a small part of the plastic to assure it didn't melt it. It helped me removing the silicone on the outside, but then I was stuck. It doesn't loosen up the silicone on the inside of the silicone, so I had to find another way to open it up.
The seam of the unit has this kind of shape: c- The rear is the 'c' and the front (glass) part, is the '-' . This is clicked into each other and completely filled with silicone. So what I did to open this up was using some flat screwdrivers and even the back of a spoon because it was also flat but wider than a screwdriver.
In the little opening of the seam, I cutted several times with a sharp knife, to cut the silicone inside. Then I heated up the seam with my wife's hairdryer :164: and started fiddling with the flat screwdrivers into the little opening into the seam. This caused the upper side of the "c" seam to ply open.
You may think, oh no, now it's wasted, but thrust me, it isn't. I did this heating up and plying step by step, slowly going further and further. It takes some time to do this, and this will be the most annoying job of the whole conversion but when the unit finally gives up the fight and opens up, it's all worth the fiddling.
I don't have pictures of the opening process, but you can see the seam and how it's opened up on some of the pictures.
Here's the result when the unit is opened:
The next step in the proces is removing the stock projectors and measuring them so I know what I can replace them with.
Here's the first projector, together with it's metal shroud and bracket:
First of all, I measured the diameter of the lens. It's a 2,5inch lens:
Of course, the inside of the shroud is the same, but a picture anyway:
Then we have the length of the stock projector, 143mm:
The width of the projector, 99mm:
and the height of the projector, about 92mm:
I've opened up the projector to take a look on the inside and discovered the metal plate that creates the beam pattern for low beam. If you look very well, you can see it has an 'L' pressed on one side, and an 'R' on the other side. My unit was from the UK, so the 'L' was visible. In USA, Europe mainland,..., the 'R' will be visible.
So if you want to change the pattern from LHD to RHD or vice versa, just turn it around:
Now it's time to order some things.
First of all, I've ordered an on/off switch for the lights. Why? Let me explain:
The main reason Xenon Hid lamps break down, is because when you light them up, put em out and immediately back on, they don't have enough time to cool down. These lamps are filled with xenon gas with a very high pressure. What's also inside are metal halides. These chemical metal things will stuck together if not cooled down enough, causing the lamp to malfunction over time.
So if we turn on the contact, the light already starts. While starting the engine, it stops, when started, it's immediately back on. That's not a good scenario for xenon lamps.
So that's the main reason I wanted an on/off switch. The other reasons, are because I could save the battery while starting the engine, having more juice available and because I could decide myself when the lights are on and when they're not.
I also wanted a set of very bright led sidelights to match the xenons. In my search for the most brightness and best quality available, I found these: http://www.v-leds.com/Interior-LED/DomeMap-LED/White-LED/V-LEDS-HID-5K-WHITE-4-p8761053.html
Ok, they're not cheap, but I've tried a couple of different leds and these are really the best I've seen so far.
Next and most important order are the bixenon projectors, lamps, ballasts, wire harness.
I bought these @ http://www.theretrofitsource.com
I've sent them an email with the following order: Bi-Xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III kit (D2S), with optional Philips 85122+ lamps (4300K colour), H7 wire harness without high beam taps and without shrouds.
It's also possible to opt for the H1 version of this kit. They might even be easier to build in because they're a bit smaller than the D2S version. But I wanted the D2S version as used in OEM applications.
Here a picture of the delivered parts:
The wire harness in this kit is equipped with a relais and a fuse. The original wires of the H7 lamp will be connected to the relais (I soldered everything) so the relais will open to allow electricity from the battery directly to the ballasts.
Then it was time to mount the projectors into the bracket together with the original shroud.
Off course this wasn't plug & play. So I had to do some adjustments. I used the dremel to grind away some plastic on the mounting points of the lens holder, flush with the original recess, but a bit larger.
Than I grinded away some metal out of the brackets and the shrouds. You can see how I did this on the pictures. I don't have any numbers or drawings of this, so you'll have to try and fit just like I did. :038:
On the picture you can see the little electro magnet, that pulls the small metal plate down to create the high beam. It's equipped with red/black wires that I'll be connecting with the original high beam wiring.
Here a picture of all this mounted together into the housing:
The second projector is mounted the same way, just copied everything from the finished side.
Then it was time to fit the ballasts. I wanted them inside the housing so they aren't visible and because it wouldn't take extra space somewhere outside the housing. So after some fiddling around, I found how I could fit them inside.
I bought myself a small galvanised plate (0.55mm thickness) in the diy-shop and cut out 2 pieces of 20cm x 4cm. Rounded the corners a bit and plied them to fit inside the housing (see picture).
I also made a hole into the middle of the housing for the wires to pass through. Sealed the hole with some hot glue. Now the connectors for the ballasts are inside the housing. I also soldered the connectors for the high beam electromagnets onto the original high beam wiring. The relais is mounted on the right side of the housing, on the opposite side of the blinker relais.
I glued the selfmade ballast brackets in place with some Tec-7. On the outside of the housing, I've soldered an extra connector onto the wires coming from the battery so I could easily disconnect the light unit afterwards.
Then it's time to mount the ballasts inside and connect everything. I used some very strong gel-like pads to stick the ballasts to their brackets. Because if I would use Tec-7, when hardened it would be very difficult to get them loose if needed (during install or afterwards). When everything was ok, I secured it extra with a tie strap.
So on the next picture(s) you can see both projectors and ballasts mounted in place. Notice how abused and opened the seam of the headlight looks. This is going to be corrected later.
And a picture of the back of the housing, showing the original connector and the connector I made for the battery power. The lamps are also fitted here together with the D2S connectors on them.
Now the next step will be the testing.
I wired up everything temporary just to see if everything works and/or needed adjustments.
Note: the next 3 pictures are taken with the garage door opened and the garage light on.
First of all, the VLEDs:
The double xenon eyes:
And their beam pattern:
Everything worked perfectly and from the first time. So It was time to finish this.
I noticed on the picture there was light coming through on the sides of the shrouds. So I taped it with some black duck-tape. (Gaffer tape? - or something like that) Put all screws back in place so the brackets can't be over adjusted and put the tie straps over the ballasts.
Then I cleaned out the resting silicone that was in the seam with a flat screwdriver. When everything scraped clean, I heated up the seam step by step, with my wife's hairdryer, so the plastic gets soft. When it's soft, you can easily bend it back into it's original position with a flat pliers.
It doesn't matter if it looks a bit damaged. You won't see this when the unit is installed on the bike.
Cleaned en rebended seam:
The seam of the transparent front is also cleaned. On its inside there's also a plastic part. There are two horizontal plastic bars that I've grined a bit narrower so I was sure they didn't touch the ballasts when mounted.
When everything was ready to close (everything cleaned fingerprint free), it was time to close the headlight unit again.
I didn't want to reuse silicones again. I opted for the hot glue solution, because I found out I could melt this with the hairdryer. So if I ever have to open it up again, it would mean less fiddling around.
I first filled the complete seam:
Then I pressed to front onto the back while constantly applying heat with the hairdryer. Step by step and slowly, it comes together, until you can click it back into place.
When done, I applied another layer of glue on the outside of the seam to give it a clean look and to make sure it closed everywhere:
And this is the finished result:
I bet you can't see the difference :038:
Ok, there is a slight difference. Before it was a blurry fresnel lens. Now it's a very clear lens and when the lights are out you can see the small electromagnets that controls the high beam.
So the last step is mounting it on the bike. Not that difficult. Just the opposite way of removing the headlight unit. I also removed the tank, so I could route the wiring coming from the battery nicely underneath it.
I also mounted the on/off switch on the handlebars and connected them. Just find the '+' wire of the original low beam wiring. Cut it in 2 and solder a wire of the switch to each side of the cutted wires.
With everything mounted, it was time to compare the difference. I took pictures before and after.
Note: the pictures are taken with my sony ericsson w995 mobile phone. On the picture with halogen low beam, it automatically turns the flash led on. With the xenon pictures, this flash led is off because it thinks there's enough light in the room...
Halogen low beam:
Xenon low beam:
Xenon high beam:
The adjustment of the beam pattern isn't permanently yet because I don't have a light adjustment tool. Exact adjustment will be done afterwards.
And here some pictures of the final result on the bike:
I hope you like the result as much as I do.
Now both lights are on all the time, and they both function as low and high beam.
And for those who might wonder: they feel cooler when compared to my 55w halogen lamp.
The vleds do get hot though.
It took some time to do this conversion, but it was all worth it. This might be a nice winter project.
If you have questions, comments or whatever. Feel free to ask or speak :158: :031:
Alors ? Qu'en pensez vous ?
Perso, je trouve ça
